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| Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris) |
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is a widely disseminated, increasingly fashionable vine variety that can produce soft, gently perfumed wines with more substance and colour than most whites, which is what one might expect of a variety that is one of the best-known mutation of PINOT NOIR. If Pinot Noir berries are purplish blue and the berries of the related PINOT BLANC are greenish yellow, Pinot Gris grapes are anything between greyish blue and brownish pink - sometimes on the same bunch. In the vineyard this vine can easily be taken for Pinot Noir for the leaves are identical and, especially late in a ripe year, the berries can look remarkably similar. At one time Pinot Gris habitually grew in among the Pinot Noir of many Burgundian vineyards, adding softness and sometimes acidity to its red wine. Even today, as Pinot Beurot, it is sanctioned as an ingredient in most of Burgundy´s red wine appellations and the occasional vine can still be found in some of the region´s famous red wine vineyards . It was traditionally prized for its ability to soften Pinot Noir musts but older CLONES have a tendency to yield very irregularly.
There also remain small pockets of the variety in the Loire, where it is often known as Malvoisie (although even in such a small appellation as Coteaux d´ANCENIS both Malvoisie and Pinot Beurot are officially allowed as a suffix). It can produce perfumed, substantial wines in a wide range of different sweetness levels. It is also known as Malvoisie in the Valais in SWITZERLAND, where it can also produce full, perfumed, rich whites.
But, within France, Alsace is where Pinot Gris (here traditionally but mysteriously known as Tokay) is most revered, and with good reason. It may be less commonly planted than the other members of Alsace´s noble triumvirate, Riesling and Gewürztraminer, but it is gaining ground and fulfils a unique function as provider of super-rich, usually dry, wines that can be partnered width food without the distraction of too much aroma.
As with Pinot Blanc, however, much more Pinot Gris is planted in both Germany and Italy than in France. In Germany it has generally been known as RULÄNDER but, when vinified dry as it increasingly is, it is konwn as ROMANIA, where, on 1600 ha/3900 acres of vineyard, it is konwn both as Pinot Gris and Ruländer. In Hungary it is revered as SZÜRKEBARÀT. Within the CIS, Pinot Gris is grown in both RUSSIA and MOLDOVA.
Pinot Gris´s impact on the New World has been limited but is perceptibly increasing. The variety has been one of OREGON´s most successful. There has been a dramatic increase in plantings in California, mainly Monterey and Napa, in the late 1990s. And improved CLONAL SELECTION has precipitated a renewal of enthusiasm in the South Island of New Zealand and Australia, albeit on a small scale.
The variety is also much admired for its weight and relatively low acidity in LUXEMBOURG and MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER (Germany).
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